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An Ethopian orthodox Christian Priest
in Lalibela. He
dons the shades to protect his eyes from the
glare of tourists flashguns.
The rock hewn St. George's church
in Lalibela. One of
the finest examples of a church carved
into solid rock
Three Torritonian Ambassadors in
Ethopia - Taken at
the Tissat Falls on the Blue Nile
Mrs Dianne Nicholson (GTS Head Teacher)
Mr Jay Nicholson (Videographer)
Mr Andy Bloodworth (GTS Director of Sport)
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Ethiopia - the
GTS-Azezo Link
Part 6 - Lalibela
Readers will remember that Great
Torrington Community School has made a link with a high school in Azezo
near Gondar in Ethiopia. Two teachers from Azezo have been to Torrington
and two teachers from Torrington made the return journey to Azezo last
March. This is the story of the final leg of that initial visit.
Our final excursion in Ethiopia was to the world heritage site of Lalibela
which sits in the middle of nowhere at an elevation of 2630 metres in
the Lasta Mountains. Lalibela has very little to offer the tourist and
were it not for one thing, it would not merit our interest. Its principal
attraction, however, is classed as one of the most important historic
Christian sites of the ancient world. I speak of the famous "rock-hewn"
churches. We can all envisage a church built painstakingly of blocks
of stone, each carefully carved and then cemented into place with mortar.
A "rock-hewn" church is something altogether different and
so spectacular in its conception that it is just jaw-droppingly interesting.
Take a whole landscape formed of red volcanic rock. Then dig a square-shaped
trench, about 20 metres along one side, into the solid rock about 4
metres wide and 15 metres deep. From one corner carve a staircase down
to the bottom of the adjacent corner. Descending this staircase would
bring you to the base of an immense block of stone. Then carve a church
out of this block including all the detail of the outside, the windows,
the doors and inside carve as pillars to support the roof. That is a
rock-hewn church and in Lalibela there are eleven of them. The most
perfect is the church of St George (Bet Giyorgis), which is carved in
the shape of a Greek cross. Remember that in an earlier article I mentioned
that Ethiopia and England share the same patron saint.
We moved along underground passages and walkways from one church to
the next in wonder at their amazing construction and detail. I remember
thinking how lucky they were that it doesn't rain much in this part
of the world. If it did, the churches would be swamped. We came across
a priest who lived most of his life in the gloomy interiors and when
we asked to take his picture he had no objection except that he first
put on his sunglasses. He cut a very comical site in his ancient and
austere surroundings, dressed in long robes and sporting a turban and
"shades.
Lalibela was originally known as Roha and it is thought that most of
the churches were carved during the reign of King Lalibela in the twelfth
and thirteenth centuries. The town was later renamed in his honour.
Lalibela was the last destination on our historic tour of Ethiopia.
We had started in Addis Ababa, moved to Bahar Dar, then to Gondar and
our link-school in the nearby village of Azezo, then to Axum and finally
to Lalibela before returning to our starting point in Addis Ababa for
our flight home.
Next year, a group of pupils from Great Torrington School will go to
Ethiopia and experience life in a "third world" school. That
lucky group will also experience some of the historic places that we
visited last year. I am sure that they will not be disappointed for
Ethiopia is a fascinating country full of wonderful mountainous scenery
and with a culture stretching back unbroken to the dawn of civilization,
a thousand years before Christ. Please do everything you can to support
and encourage these youngsters who must now raise the £1000 each
for their Ethiopian adventure.
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St.George's Church - detail of
outer carvings

Detail of the inner decorative
carving of a rock hewn
church in Lalibela

One of the many window designs
of the rock hewn
churches. One design even featured a "swastica"
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